Khao San Road (Thai: ถนนข้าวสาร) is, technically speaking, a small road located about a block from the Chao Phraya river at the northern side of Rattanakosin. Backpackers and budget travelers are drawn here by some of the cheapest accommodation and travel deals in Thailand. This article also deals with the wider Banglamphu area that hosts a few interesting temples.

The word khao san itself means milled rice and is an attribution to the historical role of this street in the rice trade. The first business to open on Khao San Road was a small hotel aimed at serving civil servants from the provinces who came to Bangkok on business. The hotel was followed by Sor Thambhakdi, a shop selling monks' accessories. Four similar businesses moved in after, and Khao San became known as a "religious road".

Word soon spread about the easy lifestyle and friendliness of the locals. Friends told friends, and before long, the owner of the house started to charge 20 baht for food and lodging. The first commercial guest house, called Bonny, opened with six small bedrooms.

Today, there's a lot more than six small bedrooms on offer. In the span of just a couple of blocks, there are bars, food stalls, restaurants, convenience stores, pharmacies, Internet cafes, money changing booths, ATMs, shoe stores, massage parlors, tailors, travel agencies, laundry, boxing gyms, optometrists, endless warrens of suspiciously discounted designer clothes and, oh, rooms for the night.

The chaos has spilled over to the entire area, including Soi Rambuttri, which features little bars and restaurants that are starting to spill out onto the sidewalk; Phra Athit Road, with plenty of mid-range riverside hotels and Samsen; a quiet neighborhood with cozy guest houses. It is indeed a place of tourist attraction though it is also a little unsafe at night and instances of mugging and pick-pocketing do occur.

• Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (under the Pinklao Bridge), ☎ +66-2-225-7612(-4). It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.

Rattanakosin (Thai: รัตนโกสินทร์), also known as Rattanakosin Island, is the historic center of Bangkok, where most of Bangkok's 'must see' sights can be found, including the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and others. Rattanakosin was established in 1782 when King Rama I moved the Siamese capital across the river from Thonburi, starting a period in Thai history known as the Rattanakosin-era. Spending a few days in this remarkable district does not just show you dozens of traditional Buddhist temples, palaces, museums, parks and monuments, but also gives you a better understanding of the culture, history and religion of the Thai people.

History

The Rattanakosin-era was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms that preceded it. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and burnt down by Burmese armies in 1767, a small period of chaos and Burmese occupation ensued the lands of Siam. The resistance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader that defeated the Burmese within one year and established the new Siamese capital in Thonburi, right across the Chao Phraya river from Rattanakosin. Instead of just conquering back Siam, he also took hold of Western Cambodia, almost the whole of the Malay Peninsula, Lanna (modern Far Northern Thailand) and Laos.

Despite these successes, in 1779 King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the powerful Buddhist monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil, with rampant corruption and famine. Many Chinese factions were discontent with the current leadership and King Taksin tried to restore order by harsh punishments and purges. A popular general under King Taksin was General Phraya Chakri, who had successfully managed the invasion of Cambodia. While he was away, a rebellion controlled Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. King Taksin was secretly executed. When Phraya Chakri came back from Cambodia, he was offered the throne, becoming King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty and starting the Rattanakosin-era.

One of his first actions was to move the capital across the river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin. According to him, Rattanakosin had a more strategic location, as he turned it into an artificial island with the the Chao Phraya river in the west and man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants occupied the area at that time, but they were moved outside of the new city walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored the social and political system of the Ayutthaya period, even imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin — including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resembled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be incorporated into the new capital's grand scheme.

Orientation

As the district has been the result of careful 18th-century urban planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward. Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a wide open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field are Rattanakosin's prime sights, the most important of which is the Grand Palace. Just like in Ayutthaya, part of its compound is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred temple of Thailand home to the Emerald Buddha. Most people hop on the express boat and spend a full day taking in these shimmering beauties. Walking between the sights is a blast, and can be easily done if you carry a bottle of water for the occasional cool-off.

Khao San Road is in any way an integral part of Rattanakosin, but is separately covered as it turned into a laid-back hippy-style party area that is quite different from the grandeur of Rattanakosin. Walking from Khao San Road to the Grand Palace takes about 25 minutes, if you don't take in any stops on the way.

• Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (under the Pinklao Bridge), ☎ +66-2-225-7612(-4). It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.

Silom (Thai: สีลม) is the closest Bangkok gets to Wall Street, with glistening skyscrapers all boasting the names of financial institutions. After nightfall the character of the place changes considerably though: the small sois between Silom Road and Surawong Road come alive with people out for a good time, including the infamous den of sleaze that is Patpong. The area known as Bangrak (or Riverside) is also covered here. It is home to many of Bangkok's top luxury hotels, including Mandarin Oriental.

In the 19th century, daily life in Bangkok mostly took place on and around the canals. Silom was a rural farmland criss-crossed by canals and filled with rice fields, orchards and windmills. During this era, most urban life happened on the riverside, which was a busy trading quarter welcoming European merchant ships and envoys. This area, known as Bangrak, still has a kind of European atmosphere with many exclusive colonial-style hotels and old abandoned warehouses. Silom (windmills in Thai) has changed immensely with the coming of modern times. Charoen Krung Road (New Road) was the first paved road of Bangkok, built in 1861 during the reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV) at the request of foreign consuls who wanted to ride their horses and carriages. Over time, most of the canals have disappeared and turned into roads.

With the rise of Thailand as a newly industrializing economy, Silom turned into Thailand's major financial center filled with banking institutions, corporate high-rises and condominiums. Its importance as a business center has been acknowledged by the recent construction of the Skytrain and the metro right through the district. Their construction has not helped much as traffic congestion continues to be a serious problem in the area. At day, there actually is not that much to do here, except when the white-collar workers flock onto the streets for lunch. The fusion of peoples here make this a great place for people watching. Cigar-smoking Thai business men walk through masses of well-suited secretaries, office workers and Western expatriates. Recently, many Indians and Muslims took residence around the intersection with Charoen Krung Road.

At night, Silom turns into the place to be. It is a vibrant neighborhood that is actually a little hard to describe — in the sense that it has become one of Bangkok's most cosmopolitan streets as well as one of the sleaziest. Soi Patpong is the hedonistic playground all of Bangkok is generally stereotyped for, but it actually consists of just two small sois. These so-called "go-go bars" might as well be called brothels, but a trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to this surreal environment. But if you fancy something more upclass and tamer, Silom is also the place to be. Some of the expensive hotels in the area cater to rich visitors that like to talk business over a glass a wine. Having a cocktail at the top of the Banyan Tree Building or the State Tower gives some of the best views of Southeast Asia.

Orientation is fairly easy as most of the magic happens at Silom Road, especially where it intersects with Rama IV Road. Heading west, it becomes kind of sleepy around the intersection with Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road. The area starts to live up again when you get closer to the river in an area known as Bangrak. Parallel of Silom Road lies Sathorn Road to the south and Surawong Road to the north.

There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in the world represented, this is the place to break your pad thai diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese or Indian food you will ever eat.

Finding your way around the mindblowing variety in Sukhumvit might feel a bit daunting at first. One way to approach the area is to visit its ethnic food neighborhoods. Sukhumvit's Little Japan is located near Sukhumvit Soi 33 and across the street at Soi 24, with Phrom Phong BTS station straddling the two. There is also a smaller concentration along Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), notably the Nihonmura ("Japan Village") in Thong Lo Soi 13. (The other major outpost of Nippon is Soi Thaniya in Silom. Korean restaurants can be found scattered throughout town, but a particularly heavy concentration lurks in Korea Town, the informal name of Sukhumvit Soi 12's Sukhumvit Plaza (a short walk from Asok BTS station). These are extremely authentic though and you may have a little trouble ordering if not familiar with Korean food. Soi 3 and Soi 3/1, a short walk from Nana BTS station, are known as Soi Arab for the heavy concentration of Middle Eastern businesses in the area; in some spots you will see more signs in Arabic than in Thai! Thanks to a demanding clientele and heavy competition, the food here is some of the best this side of Lebanon.

Fusion restaurants are centered around the H1 complex on Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo). Thai food with a modern twist has become particularly popular the last years (another place to go hunting for fusionis the hip district of Siam Square).

Food Courts

While not as much an institution as in Siam Square, the food courts in any mall or department store are a good option if you're trying to survive Sukhumvit on budget and want air-conditioning. Just like in Siam Square, food courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to more upscale dining. Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded.

• Emporium Food Court, 5th Floor, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-269-1000. 10AM-10PM daily. A very upscale happening (and crowd), this place challenges the idea of food courts as being simple places to have a snack after shopping. Park Food Hall serves an extensive three-course meal with wine in a dimly-lit atmosphere.You can also go to the regular food court, which is comparatively small and hidden behind the other restaurants, but cheap and often packed. At peak hours it's difficult to get a seat if you're alone. This food court works with coupon system. You'll get a 2000-baht coupon upon entry and pay for the amount you've spent afterwards. The prices have been increasing over the past year. 100-2000 baht.

• Ploenchit Center Food Court, 6th Floor, Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit, then a short walk through the expressway tunnel), ☎ +66-2-656-8600(-4). The top floor of the Ploenchit Center is one of the cheaper food courts along Sukhumvit Road, but with a good selection of Thai dishes. It is mostly popular among the local office workers, many secretaries in outfit have lunch here. It works with a coupon system. 50-100 baht.

• Robinson Food Court, Basement Floor, Robinson, 159 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, at the Sukhumvit Rd and Soi 19 intersection), ☎ +66-2-252-5121. 10AM-10PM daily. While still a decent food court, it is a bit more expensive than the others, and you might need to order twice get full. It is in the heart of Sukhumvit though, so a good way to get a cheap menu without having to dine at expensive restaurants. 100 baht.

Budget

Street Food

While an expensive district, there are some cheapie sois with excellent street food if you know where to go:

• Between Soi 1 and Soi 3 (BTS Nana) is a set of street food stalls with the best one furthest from the street. It is called Oowan Im (literally 'fatty is full'), but is sign-posted in English with just the word "Seafood" on an otherwise Thai sign. Seafood is their specialty — good things to order include the "crispy fish in chili sauce", tom yum soup and any of their Thai salads (such as mixed seafood salad). The Chinese-style fried vegetables are also delicious.

• Soi 7 (BTS Nana) is an alternative for seafood. About 30 meters down the soi on the right hand side is a group of Thai seafood restaurants. The sitting area looks shared, but actually only the tables in front of the food stalls belong to that restaurant. So in case you liked the food, remember the name of 'your' restaurant. Mains go out for about 150 baht, while a cold beer sets you back for 65 baht.

• Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo), opposite Soi 55, gives you some of the best street food in Bangkok. Not a restaurant in itself, just sit at a table and order whatever you like from the numerous foodstalls (they'll figure out the bill for you). You can find the most delicious mango and sticky rice (khao niow ma muang) in town. Evenings only.

Restaurants

Budget restaurants are generally hard to find, but the following are favourites under Bangkok's large expat population:

• Food Centre Soi 5, Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana). Simple, well-visited restaurant serving Thai and Western food. Thai dishes are reasonably original, with little concession to the Western taste. Rapid service. 100 baht.

• Ramen Ichiban, 3/7-9 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-258-6314. An authentically Japanese greasy-spoon noodle joint specializing in ramen soup. For less than 100 baht, the large bowl is a good value. 80-150 baht.

• Took Lae Dee, Foodland Supermarket, 87 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-254-2367. Open 24 hours. Took Lae Dae is a Bangkok institution. Imagine a long bar counter, only with chefs and food instead of bartenders and drinks, and a colorful cast of characters thanks to Nana Plaza across the street. The name literally means cheap and good and indeed basic fried rice starts at 40 baht, but the cheap Western dishes, many less than 100 baht, are what makes this place popular. The American breakfast (two eggs, ham, bacon or sausage, juice, toast, coffee) in particular is a steal at 47 baht between 6AM-9AM, or 58 baht at any other time. 50-100 baht.

Mid-Range

Fusion

• Be your Guest' Cafe, 24 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 53 (BTS Thonglo Exit 1 and turn right in Soi 53), ☎ +66-816 379 047 ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ). 11AM-6PM daily. Be your Guest' Café is the meeting place of all those wishing to enjoy a delicious diverse cooking with dishes from all around the world soup, salad, sandwich, main dish… as well as a selection of typical French, Thai and Fusion food) The Villa Be your Guest is located in an executive, distinguished and relaxing Tropical garden with private pool. Furthermore, every day, the Be your Guest’ chefs propose their suggestions. Be your Guest' Café also provides a large choice of ‘take away or delivered’ food. 300 baht.

• Greyhound Cafe, 2nd Floor, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-255-6964(-5). 10AM-10PM daily. An extremely modern restaurant of concrete and brushed steel, offering a fusionesque menu of food ranging from authentic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains are around 300 baht, although the lunch sets are cheaper than that. There's also a branch at J-Avenue (Thong Lo Soi 15). 300 baht.

• Minibar Royale, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 32 (BTS Thong Lo), ☎ +66-2-261-5533. 6:30AM-midnight daily. If you're looking for a hip New York or Paris-style brasserie, this is definitely the place. The French decor is very classy done, and service is okay. On the menu are a mix of French and American comfort food. Drink it down with one of their cocktails and you'll have a fun night out. Also a trip for breakfast. Prices are at the upper mid-range end though. 450 baht.

• Thyme Bistro & Martini Bar, 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), ☎ +66-2-120-8288. 6:30AM-11PM daily. A brand new restaurant located in Kingston Suites Bangkok, its dishes could be described as "fusion", as it offers local, international and some popular Mediterranean dishes. The asparagus rolls are a must-have and if you are there in the evening, have one of their Martinis. 300-400 baht.

Thai

• Ana's Garden, 67 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, between Thong Lo Soi 1 and 3), ☎ +66-2-391-1762. 3PM-midnight daily. This is a lovely garden restaurant with palm trees and fountains. A nice Thai dinner here doesn't have to cost you more than 200 baht. Hidden at the rear is the cool and cozy Groove Kitchen club with funky house music. Compared to the crowded clubs of Sukhumvit, this it is definitely a change of pace into a more relaxed jungle atmosphere. 150-250 baht.

• Baan Khanitha, 36/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok), ☎ +66-2-258-4181. 11AM-2PM, 6PM-11PM daily. Well-known if mildly touristy restaurant in an old Thai house, the primary concession to Western tastes being the lack of chili. It is on the expensive side with most mains (especially seafood), but the food is generally excellent and the presentation spot-on. Best known for their pomelo salad (ยำส้มโอ yam som-o) and red curry with duck (แกงแดงเป็ด kaeng daeng pet). 400 baht.

• Cabbages and Condoms, 6 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok), ☎ +66-2-229-4610. 11AM-10PM daily. Run by Thailand's Population and Community Development Association, the odd name refers to the fact that the NGO promotes agricultural production as well as condom use; and no prizes for guessing what you'll get after dinner instead of an after-dinner mint. The food is competent but toned down for the foreign palate. A bit expensive for what you get but its for an excellent cause. 300 baht.

• Check Inn Garden (formerly Check Inn 99), 97 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, tucked away between Soi 5 and 7, look for the white sign with black letters that direct you into a passageway), ☎ +66-2-252-6706. 5PM-1AM daily. Previous reviews said this place was straight out of a James Bond movie. However, it's closer to Rick's Cafe in Casablanca. Check Inn Garden (no longer 99) is an oasis amidst the chaos of the Nana area. Good Western and Thai menu, a friendly and attentive staff, and terrific entertainment every night courtesy of three delightful Philippine singers. At 8:45PM, the music starts and it turns a bit dark and seedy, but is still a decent place to relax. Happy hour is from 6PM till 8PM. 200 baht.

• Kinnaree, 43 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana, about 150 meters inside the soi on the left), ☎ +66-2-256-0328. 11:30AM-3PM, 6PM-midnight daily. Very nice Thai ambiance and decoration, great in the evening. Lounge bar and private rooms upstairs. The different sets of lunch menus are reasonably priced. The food is excellent and includes dishes hard to find elsewhere. Some dishes could be more spicy by Thai standards though. 200-400 baht.

• Lemongrass, 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong, opposite the Emporium), ☎ +66-2-258-8637. M-Su 6PM-10PM. This is a very good if slightly expat-oriented Thai restaurant. Located in an old tea house, the ambiance is very charming and eclectic. The pomelo salad and tom yam kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง) are both excellent. As is usual with popular expat places, the spicyness has been toned down somewhat. Also, the service can be a bit hasty. 350-450 baht.

• Ruen Mallika, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (it is actually not on Soi 22, it is in a little street off Soi 22, take a right at the 7-11 when you are heading from Sukhumvit Rd towards Rama IV Rd and it is about 200-300m on your right), ☎ +66-2-663-3211. 11AM-11PM daily. A very good restaurant in an "antique" Thai house with a leafy outdoor section. The menu is a huge picture book which should help in ordering. The staff are very friendly and wear traditional Thai outfits to complete the ambiance. 450-650 baht.

Southeast Asian

• Le Dalat, 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, then walk north up Soi 23), ☎ +66-2-258-4192. 11AM-2:30PM, 6PM-10PM daily. Two Vietnamese restaurants, two locations about a block apart and across the street from each other. When it's a nice day outside, take a seat in the beautiful tropical garden which is wonderful. The traditional interior You can get lunch for about 250 baht, which is a good value. Service can be rough, be especially wary for the overcharge at the end. 450 baht.

• Xuan Mai, 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, across the street from Mercedes-Benz Thong Lo), ☎ +66-2-185-2619. Tu-Th 11AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM, F-Su 11AM-2PM, 5PM-midnight, M closed. Excellent and varied Vietnamese menu, served by the owner, a charming lady who was a former Vietnamese beauty queen and FBI operative before moving to Bangkok to open a restaurant. It has an open kitchen, so you can see the cooking in action. 250-450 baht.

• Vientiane Kitchen, 8 Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1, Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS Thong Lo, at the corner of Soi 36 and Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1), ☎ +66-2-258-6171. noon-midnight daily. This relaxed-looking Lao restaurant serves very good Lao food. It has a nice ambiance featuring a band playing music from Laos. 150-300 baht.

Japanese

• Fuji, 4th Floor, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-664-8580(-2). 10AM-10PM daily. This classy and modern Japanese restaurant chain can be found in the Emporium shopping mall. They have an extensive menu with all the Japanese dishes you're probably already familiar with, but they are delicious and service is quick. For 250 baht, you'll be completely stuffed. It's best to come in a group, so everyone can choose a different menu and you can mix and match. 250 baht.

• Grande Teppanyaki and Grande Ramen, 25/17-19 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo), ☎ +66-2-714-1020. Two small Japanese restaurants facing each other, popular with Thais and Japanese alike. Sub-100 baht lunch menus are particularly good value, but the beef curry with real steak is a deal at any time of the day. 130 baht, subs 80 baht.

• Nobu, 414 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, at the corner of Soi Thong Lo and Thong Lo Soi 14, between Thong Lo Soi 12 and 14), ☎ +66-2-392-5297. 11AM-2PM, 6PM-midnight daily. This is a nice local restaurant. They are very good for lunch with a large selection of Bento (boxed lunch) specials. Getting dinner here is a lot more expensive than lunch. It is focused on fresh seafood and dishes from the Osaka region of Japan. It's always crowded with Japanese expats that live in the area. They also have a branch at K-Village. 300 baht.

• Uta-Andon, 3rd Floor, Emporium Shopping Mall, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-664-8528. 11AM-9:30PM daily. Same ownership as Kabuki in Siam Square, Uta-Andon is a Japanese restaurant chain with one of its branches in the Emporium Shopping Mall. Ambiance and decoration are as you would expect, plain and straightforward, but it gets the job done. They have different sets you can choose, such as the lunch set, sushi set, sashimi set or oden set. 240-400 baht.

Indian

• Akbar, 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (BTS Nana, then walk into Soi 3, the restaurant will be at the left side), ☎ +66-2-255-6935. 9AM-midnight daily. Being two decades old, this mid-sized Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurant is one of the most established restaurants in Bangkok. It serves quality food for reasonable prices. Its location next to Soi Arab is ideal as you can compare with other restaurants in the area. Try the Akbari Chicken. 150-200 baht.

• Indian Host, 30 Soi Sukhumvit 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, next to Grande Mercure Hotel), ☎ +66-2-260-1115. 11:30AM-11:30PM daily. This restaurant has contemporary North Indian cuisine and Indo-Chinese fusion dishes. Its food is very authentic and much like you'd taste in India. The tender lamb Raan is their signature dish. 200-400 baht.

• Khana Khazana, 153 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-255-2289. 11AM-midnight daily. Pure Indian vegetarian restaurant with North Indian, South Indian and Gujarati food. 200-500 baht.

• Masala Art, 2nd Floor, Thonglor Eight Building, 88 Thong Lo Soi 8 (BTS Thong Lo), ☎ +66-2-713-8357. 11AM-3PM, 6PM-11PM daily. This is a luxury North Indian restaurant with its own philosophy. Masala is the Indian word for spice, and the "art of spices" means that there should be a natural balance of spices to get healthy, herbal and delicious food. This restaurant offers a fixed lunch and dinner special. It boasts a great decor, as well as authentic (and spicy) Indian food. Prices can be steep though, especially if you opt for a three-course meal. 220-450 baht.

• Mrs Balbir's, 155/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 (BTS Nana, next to Business Inn Hotel), ☎ +66-2-651-0498. Tu-Su 11:30AM-11PM, M closed. Note that after 35 years of operation, the restaurant has moved to a new location only a few doors away. The curries are still some of the best in all of Bangkok, and a good value compared to other Indian restaurants along Sukhumvit. It has less than ten tables, but that just gives it a cozy and personal feeling. Try the chicken tikka, it's delicious. 250-400 baht.

• Namuskaar (Namuskar), 9 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana, walk down about 20 meters, then take the first dodgy side-street on the left side of Soi 8), ☎ +66-2-255-1869 ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ). This restaurant is known among ex-pats as providing one of the closest approximations of British-style Indian food. It is definitely worth it to venture out here as the curries simply are delicious. It doesn't look super fancy or romantic, but it is clean, comparatively cheap and regular tourists don't know about this place. Try the chicken korma, or ask Tony, the owner, for advice. He can make anything you request. 200-250 baht.

Middle Eastern

• Al Ferdoss, 1st Floor, Schiller's Inn, 77/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-255-8200(-3). This Lebanese restaurant may have the ambiance of a motel lobby, which it pretty much is, but the food here is amazing. Dips and salads (hummus, tabbouleh, falafel, etc) 80 baht a pop, kebabs 130 baht and up, and best of all is the excellent oven-fresh naan. Air-conditioning indoors, but move outside for mint tea and some puffs of the shisha (water pipe). 130 baht.

• Beirut Restaurant, 1st Floor, Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-656-7377. In an unlikely location, next to a supermarket in an otherwise nearly desolate shopping mall, Beirut gets negative points for ambiance but serves up very good Middle Eastern fare. The basic shawarma in a pita is a nice simple snack. 90-220 baht.

• Shahrazad, 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-251-3666. 10AM-2AM daily. Great Middle Eastern, Malaysian and Indian food. Its dishes are well-served by hijab-clad Thai waitresses with many Arab expats hanging out here. It's been open since 1983 and one of Soi Arab's oldest and most respected restuarants. Its decor is very basic, but the food is amazing. Try the stuffed pigeon. 150-350 baht.

European

• Crepes & Co., 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok, then a far walk; it is further down the street from Cabbages & Condoms), ☎ +66-2-653-3990. 9AM-midnight daily. This restaurant is a French-Mediterranean crepes place. There is an extensive selection of crepes, both sweet and savory. There's also Spanish tapas and some Greek and Moroccan menus on offer. The atmosphere is homey, as is the garden. The service is friendly and drinking water is served for free. 400 baht.

• Pizzeria Limoncello, 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-651-0707. noon-2PM, 6PM-midnight daily. A bright, airy pizzeria; some say it has the best pizza in Bangkok, very thin and crispy with a great range of toppings. Amazing desserts too (try the profiteroles!). Don't not order the house wine, though. It is, as usual in Bangkok, very overpriced with 1300 baht and not worth it. 250-450 baht.

• Stable Lodge, 39 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-653-0017(-9). 7AM-midnight daily. Unlike other places, this restaurant (and hotel) focuses on traditional Danish and Scandinavian food, though some Thai and international cuisine is available. There's a Scandinavian all-you-can-eat lunch buffet with open sandwich selection on Saturdays and Sundays between noon and 3PM. Every evening from 6PM is an all-you-can-eat international barbecue buffet. Aside from these discounts offers, a-la-carte is overpriced and not worth it. The hotel is a well-known meeting spot among Scandinavians with a nice family atmosphere. It costs about 1800 baht for a clean and quiet room with swimming pool. 300 baht.

American and Tex-Mex

• Big Pizza, 732-734 Charoen Suk Rd (far south from Sukhumvit Soi 22), ☎ +66-2-663-1330. Tu-Su 5PM-midnight, M closed. One of Bangkok's best and most popular pizza delivery services. They have the standard pizzas, such as margherita, Hawaii and pepperoni, as well as pastas, salads and side dishes. There's a 350 baht minimum order and delivery takes about one hour. 375-530 baht.

• Bourbon Street Bar & Restaurant, 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, at Washington Square), ☎ +66 2-259-0328(-9). 7AM-1AM daily. This places serves some surprisingly authentic Cajun food. Premium prices are charged for dinner but the two or three-course lunches at 230-290 baht are a good value. On Tuesday evenings they have a Mexican buffet starting at 6PM which is somewhat cheaper than regular prices. 230-690 baht.

• Charley Brown's Mexicana, 1/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, walk up Soi 11 and take a left at the first tailor shop into the small side-street and around the corner you will see it), ☎ +66-2-651-2215. M 5PM-midnight, Tu-Su 11:30AM-midnight. Certainly the oldest Mexican restaurant in Bangkok and probably one of the best. They have special offers on most days, including half priced margaritas and sangrias on Tuesdays and Cheap Charley Brown's night on Sundays (they match the cheap prices at Cheap Charlies who is closed that night). A tip are the 150-baht lunch sets, which is a steal. Free Wi-Fi is available. 400-500 baht.

• Duke's, 5th Floor, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-8-7002-9214. 10AM-10PM daily. Popular place for American food like "Falling Off The Bone" ribs, fresh crisp salads, gourmet burgers and home baked pizzas with excellent value for money. 200-475 baht.

• Great American Rib Company, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS Thong Lo, it is quite a hike from the main road into Soi 36), ☎ +66-2-661-3801. 11AM-11PM daily. Great American Southern-style ribs, steaks and seafood. Probably the most authentic ribs in town, smoked on low heat for 5 hours. Some menus are moderately priced, but others are very pricey (especially the steaks that don't come for less than 600 baht). 195-800 baht.

• Larry's Dive, 8 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-663-4563. 10AM-1AM daily. Best described as a sports bar in Hawaiian beach theme, although American, Mexican and grill dishes are served as well. They offer gourmet burgers, steaks and barbecue pork ribs. At Fridays they have all-you-can-eat ribs for 399 baht. It also serves an all-day breakfast. If you really want to get a hangover the next day, try their beer challenge: if you drink three pitchers of beer within one hour, the beer will be free and you'll get a free t-shirt. Also, your name will be written on the "wall of fame". Don't wear your best shoes though, as they might fill up with sand. Free Wi-Fi. 400 baht.

• Ronny's New York Pizza, Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66-2-255-2626. 1PM-3AM daily. Self-proclaimed as the first New York-style pizza place in Bangkok (thin crust, like in Europe, contrary to the pan pizza of the rest of the United States). It's open till late, so that's good, but generally the place is not special by any means. The staff is nice, but the quality of the pizzas leave to be desired. Bring your laptop for free Wi-Fi. 300-450 baht.

• Senor Pico's, 1st Floor, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), ☎ +66-2-261-7100. 5PM-1AM daily. One of Bangkok's few Mexican restaurants. It is on the expensive side, but every day of the week (except Mondays) there is a live Latin American band playing. 300-500 baht.

• Subway, Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (BTS Nana), ☎ +66 2-204-2001. Open 24 hours. Sandwiches and salads from the familiar American chain; the menu is virtually unchanged from their branches in the United States. Best is that it's always open, so even if you're hungry at 5AM, you can still go here for a sandwich. 100-200 baht.

• Sunrise Tacos, 5th Floor, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-229-4851. 10AM-10PM daily. Mexican grill with traditional favorites like nachos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and satisfying salads. The meals are fresh and they have 24 hours delivery available. It is a popular expat place. They have another branch along Sukhumvit Road (between Soi 12 and Soi 14). 100-250 baht.

• Tacos & Salsa, 422 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong, between Sukhumvit Soi 22 and Soi 24, opposite Soi 31), ☎ +66-2-663-6468. 11AM-midnight daily. Small and cozy Mexican food joint, fully air-conditioned with smoking area and nearby car park (at Washington Square). The Mexican food here is from the area around Mexican City, and is OK to pretty good. It's a little overpriced though, as the portions are quite small. Try the taquitos, it's hard to find anywhere else. 200-300 baht.

Australian

• Tenderloins, 9 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-258-4529. 10AM-1AM daily. This Australian barbecue restaurant calls itself a "contemporary upmarket sports bar and steak house", and even they have to admit that it is a weird combination. They serve up a good grill, although a bit on the pricey side. Their 250-baht lunch sets might be a better idea. Reserving a table is recommended, especially at weekends. 250-500 baht.

Splurge

Fusion

The trendiest and most upscale fusion restaurant of the moment is the Bed Supperclub, which is listed in the Drink section as it is also one of the most popular clubs.

• Basil, 1st Floor, Sheraton Grande Hotel, 250 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok, between Sukhumvit Soi 12 en 14), ☎ +66-2-649-8366. 6:30PM-10:30PM daily. Exceptional traditional Thai food with a twist in this trendy and sophisticated restaurant. It is definitely expensive, but the food is very good and there's a romantic ambiance. Try the matsaman curry, a delicious dish from Southern Thailand. Bring your wallet though. 1000 baht.

• Long Table, 25th Floor, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), ☎ +66-2-302-2557(-9). 5PM-2AM daily. From the minds of Bed Supperclub, this is another swanky superhip bar and restaurant in Bangkok. Its interior design is very impressive and made this into one of the "see and be seen" venues of Bangkok. All visitors dine at one long table, touted as the longest dining table in the world. Located on the 25th floor, it also provides for an excellent view over Bangkok's skyline. The food could best be described as fusion, with Thai and international cuisine mixed together and, if you wish, drink it with one of their excellent wines. 1500-2000 baht.

Thai

• Lan Na Thai, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, about 100 meters inside the soi on the left), ☎ +66-2-713-6048. 11AM-1:30AM daily. A part of Face Bangkok, which has established itself as one of Thailand's leading dining venues, Lan Na Thai is their trendy and chic Thai restaurant. Its interior looks nothing less than stunning, with cultural artifacts all over. It is surrounded by wooden Lanna-style teak houses that rival Jim Thompson's House. One of Bangkok's must-see locations. 400-800 baht.

Indian

• Hazara, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, about 100 meters inside the soi on the left), ☎ +66-2-713-6048. 11AM-1:30AM daily. A part of Face Bangkok, that also includes an upper class Thai and Japanese restaurant, this is one of the fanciest Indian restaurants in Bangkok. It's named after a region and tribe in Afghanistan, Hazara, whose cuisine has been associated with northern India. 400-800 baht.

• Indus, 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-258-4900. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6PM-11PM daily. The food is mainly authentic North Indian with a wide range of spicy Indian tastes. An impressive list of vegetarian dishes is also available, as well as wines from around the world. Its impressive sandstone walls and wood carvings make a great interior. Or go outside, experiencing an amazing world of your own, not even noticing it is right here in downtown Bangkok. It is recommended to make a reservation by phone. 1000 baht.

• Rang Mahal, 26th Floor, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), ☎ +66 2-261-7100. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6:30PM-11PM. Mughal (North Indian) food in surroundings fit for a Maharaja. Fairly expensive, but the all-you-can-eat Sunday champagne brunch buffet at 499 baht is a steal. The restaurant is at the 26th floor, offering great views of Bangkok. Call ahead for reservations and request a window view. 500-700 baht.

Japanese

• Misaki, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, about 100 meters inside the soi on the left), ☎ +66-713-6048. 11AM-1:30AM daily. A part of Face Bangkok, one of Thailand's leading dinning venues, Misaki is their Japanese sushi restaurant. Its interior consists of wood, stone, steel and glass, and wonderfully mixes traditional elements with a modern design. 500-800 baht.

European

• Le Beaulieu, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19 (BTS Asok), ☎ +66-2-204-2004. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6:30PM-11PM daily. This French restaurant is probably one of the best in the city. The chef cares about quality and is willing to make changes to the menus at the costumer's request. The atmosphere feels welcome and relaxed at the same time. This all goes for a high price though. The lunch sets are a lot cheaper with about 525 baht for a three-course menu and coffee. 1500-2500 baht.

• La Buca, 220/4 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit, exit 5), ☎ +66-2-253-3190. M-Sa 11:30AM-2PM, daily 6:30PM-11PM. This little Italian restaurant is possibly one of the most authentic in Bangkok. The Italian owner changes the menu weekly, and a good selection of wine is available. Romantic, but on the expensive side, even without wine. 500-800 baht.

• L'Opera, 53/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong, from Sukhumvit Road, turn into Soi 39 and continue until the second red light, the restaurant is on the corner on your left), ☎ +66-2-258-5606. 11.30AM-2.30PM, 5PM-23PM. Established 1984, this is the oldest genuine Italian restaurant in Bangkok, and most likely also in Thailand. Though long established as the Italian place to eat amongst the Thai stars, politicians and local business elite, the atmosphere is relaxed and caters to tourists and middle class as well. The food prepared by the Italian chef is top class and they stock a wine selection to match it. It is expensive by any means, 1500 baht is a normal price for a bottle of wine. 1500-3000 baht. (13°44'12.39N,100°34'17.15E)

• Tapas Cafe, 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, less than 5 min walk down soi 11), ☎ +66-2-651-2947. 11AM-late. Good Spanish food in a nice atmosphere and area. The place is a little off-shot of Soi 11 (look for the signs at the entrance on the left, next door to Charley Browns Mexican Restaurant). It is quite a popular place, good Spanish food, and most importantly, great Sangria. Surprisingly owned and managed by an Englishman. 1200 baht.

Supermarket

• Foodland Supermarket, Nai Lert Building, 87 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (Nana BTS Station, opposite Amari Boulevard), ☎ +66-2-254-2179. Open 24 hours. Foodland has everything you'd expect to find in a supermarket at decent prices. You can also find a Foodland on Sukhumvit Soi 16, close to Asok BTS station.

• UFM Fuji Super, 79 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (MRT Phetchaburi), ☎ +66-2-662-1250(-5). 8AM-10PM daily. Fuji is a Japanese supermarket specialising in imported foods and snacks that cannot be found in other supermarkets. Also has a small bakery, sushi restaurant, photo shop, and takoyaki stand.

• Villa Market, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong), ☎ +66-2-662-1000. Open 24 hours. Villa Market has branches all over Sukhumvit Road. It has everything Western customers would expect to find in a supermarket. The outlet at Soi 33 is open 24 hours.