Rattanakosin (Thai: รัตนโกสินทร์), also known as Rattanakosin Island, is the historic center of Bangkok, where most of Bangkok's 'must see' sights can be found, including the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and others. Rattanakosin was established in 1782 when King Rama I moved the Siamese capital across the river from Thonburi, starting a period in Thai history known as the Rattanakosin-era. Spending a few days in this remarkable district does not just show you dozens of traditional Buddhist temples, palaces, museums, parks and monuments, but also gives you a better understanding of the culture, history and religion of the Thai people.

History

The Rattanakosin-era was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms that preceded it. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and burnt down by Burmese armies in 1767, a small period of chaos and Burmese occupation ensued the lands of Siam. The resistance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader that defeated the Burmese within one year and established the new Siamese capital in Thonburi, right across the Chao Phraya river from Rattanakosin. Instead of just conquering back Siam, he also took hold of Western Cambodia, almost the whole of the Malay Peninsula, Lanna (modern Far Northern Thailand) and Laos.

Despite these successes, in 1779 King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the powerful Buddhist monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil, with rampant corruption and famine. Many Chinese factions were discontent with the current leadership and King Taksin tried to restore order by harsh punishments and purges. A popular general under King Taksin was General Phraya Chakri, who had successfully managed the invasion of Cambodia. While he was away, a rebellion controlled Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. King Taksin was secretly executed. When Phraya Chakri came back from Cambodia, he was offered the throne, becoming King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty and starting the Rattanakosin-era.

One of his first actions was to move the capital across the river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin. According to him, Rattanakosin had a more strategic location, as he turned it into an artificial island with the the Chao Phraya river in the west and man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants occupied the area at that time, but they were moved outside of the new city walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored the social and political system of the Ayutthaya period, even imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin — including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resembled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be incorporated into the new capital's grand scheme.

Orientation

As the district has been the result of careful 18th-century urban planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward. Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a wide open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field are Rattanakosin's prime sights, the most important of which is the Grand Palace. Just like in Ayutthaya, part of its compound is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred temple of Thailand home to the Emerald Buddha. Most people hop on the express boat and spend a full day taking in these shimmering beauties. Walking between the sights is a blast, and can be easily done if you carry a bottle of water for the occasional cool-off.

Khao San Road is in any way an integral part of Rattanakosin, but is separately covered as it turned into a laid-back hippy-style party area that is quite different from the grandeur of Rattanakosin. Walking from Khao San Road to the Grand Palace takes about 25 minutes, if you don't take in any stops on the way.

• Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (under the Pinklao Bridge), ☎ +66-2-225-7612(-4). It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.